Chapter 56. Columns from an Italian Restaurant

The cultural heart of Tuscany is a city of great art and great food: Florence to Americans, Firenze to Italians. Columns are ubiquitous in the architecture of Firenze. For this column, I took my inspiration from a restaurant, a model of best practices from which I believe we all could learn.

Ristorante Alle Murate is arguably the best restaurant in Tuscany. I say this fully cognizant of the history of hyperbole in restaurant writing. The truth is, as I sipped and savored my way through one particularly unforgettable evening there, I realized there was nothing I could improve. No herb could be added, no pinch of salt left out. Not even a garnish could be moved a hair's breadth to improve the artistry ...

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